Cockatoos

Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo

Cockatoos -  large, colourful and often raucous birds, are found in their various guises across Australia. 

The beautiful Galah, the smallest of our Cockatoos, is found across the land.  It is such a common sight that its beauty is often taken for granted.  There is something quintessentially Australian about watching a flock of Galahs waddle around the grasslands searching for seed.   They provide quite a spectacle when they take to the wing, the sun lighting up the rich pink of their under-feathers.

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Storm-clouds over Alice – the Todd River flows

Ominous cloud approaching Alice.  9 April 2010

9 April 2010

Alice Springs is famous for its Henley-on-Todd Regatta, an annual ‘boating’ event held on the Todd River in the centre of Alice Springs.  Why is it famous?  Well, because the boat races only ever take place on the dry, sandy river bed.  The ‘boats’ are carried across the sand by their crews in a race to the finish.  Indeed, the only time the Regatta has ever been cancelled has been when there has been water in the river!

It was with this image of the Todd River in mind that we arrived in Alice Springs late last year.  Dry river bed, not a drop of water in sight.  We both spoke of how much we would like to see the river flow, but didn’t hold out any hope.  

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Blog 12 – More of the Kimberley, then we cross the border to the NT – October 2009

View across Cambridge Gulf from Five Rivers Lookout, Wyndham WA

We finished our adventure along the Kimberley’s famous Gibb River Road feeling a strange mixture of elation and flatness.  We were elated to have experienced such a rugged, remote and ancient landscape, surprisingly full of wildlife and beauty.  We were also elated and relieved to have survived with car and camper trailer intact.  But we both also felt flat.  How could anything or anywhere live up to what we had just experienced?  How could we rekindle the almost magical quality of that region?

It was with these mixed feelings that we left the dirt and drove up the bitumen highway towards Wyndham, the most northerly major town in the Kimberley.  We had expected to drive along river flats and past mangrove swamps, but the region was surprisingly mountainous.  This was another reminder to us that Australia is a country of surprises.  Wyndham itself is a small place, with two halves separated by several kilometers.  The more modern administrative half appears to be the ‘growth’ district, while the older Wyndham Port features most of the town’s historic buildings.

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Australian Marsupials

Eastern Grey Kangaroo joey, Hat Head National Park, NSW

Australia is home to more than 100 species of marsupial.  Some, such as the Kangaroo, are extremely well known, indeed even synonymous with Australia.  Others, such as the small, carnivorous Dunnarts and Kultarrs, are virtually unknown.  Modern Australia holds the unfortunate world record for mammal extinctions, with many small marsupials having disappeared since the arrival of White Man and his feral pests such as cats and foxes.  Nowadays, remnant colonies of other, endangered marsupials, such as the Rufous Hare Wallaby and the Greater Billby, thrive either only on isolated islands where there are no feral predators, or in specially constructed, feral proof breeding enclosures.  These ‘island’ sanctuaries give their species some hope of survival.

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Wrens

Splendid Fairy Wren, male, Northcliffe, WA

The Wrens, and the Fairy Wrens in particular, are among the most beautiful of all small Australian birds.  The male Fairy Wren is every bit the equal of its Robin counterpart in terms of its brilliant breeding plumage.

Perhaps the most stunning is the Splendid Fairy Wren, with its almost irridescant, electric blue breeding colours radiating out from the bushland.  The other species aren’t far behind, with the Superb Fairy Wren of the eastern seaboard, the Variegated and Red-Winged Fairy Wrens, and the Red Backed and White-Winged varieties, all providing a shock of colour to the scrublands they inhabit.  The females, with their brown and cream colouring, tend not to attract the eye as much as the males of their species, but nevertheless are very pretty little birds.

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Robins

Scarlet Robin, Crystal Springs campsite, D’Entrecasteaux National Park, WA

Australia is home to many delightful species of  Robin.  We have all heard of the ‘Robin Red-Breast’, but our Robins are in fact many and varied.  Yellow, red breasted and capped, white, scarlet, buff-sided and rose are but some of the colours and types to be found in different regions of Australia.  As with most bird species, it is the male who is the most striking and colourful.  The females are relatively drab little creatures but still pretty in their own way.

It is always exciting to see a flash of colour from a small passing bird, then realise it is a beautiful little Robin.  Robins tend to live in forests or open woodlands, their diet consisting of insects, and they are often seen perched sideways on a treetrunk as they watch and wait for insects in the leaf litter below, dropping on their unsuspecting prey. 

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Parrots

Budgerigar in nesting hollow, Todd River nth of Alice Springs NT

The many Parrot species found around Australia represent some of the most beautiful birds in the land.  In addition to their visual splendour, many also have a pure bell-like call.  Some, it should be added, have a raucous squawk instead.

We were often fortunate in Canberra to see King Parrots, Crimson Rosellas and Eastern Rosellas flying from tree to tree, wild and beautiful.  We were vaguely aware that there were other Parrot species to be found across Australia, but knew them only from books or cages.  One of the great pleasures of our travels has been to discover new species (at least for us) in the wild.

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Spiders

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With apologies in advance to any readers suffering from arachnophobia, here are some images of spiders we have encountered on our travels.

Spiders are often seen as you wander through the Australian bush, often greeted by an expletive as you blunder into their web and wonder, for that horrible moment or two, whether you have a spider in your hair or on your clothes.  Mostly they are benign creatures, although we do have some particularly venomous species in Australia such as the Funnel Web.  Fortunately, we haven’t seen any of them as yet on our travels.

If you can set aside any fear you may have of spiders (as Nirbeeja is trying valiantly to do), you might appreciate them for the beautiful and industrious creatures that they are.

Majestic trees

The enormous Ghost Gum near Trephina Gorge, East MacDonnell Ranges, NTAsk someone to name an Australian tree, and most people will say “the Gum Tree”  and maybe the Wattle.  But there is enormous variety within Australia’s native trees, and Australia is home to some of the tallest trees in the world.  Only the Giant Redwoods of North America are taller than our Mountain Ash and Karri trees.

We have been fortunate to visit some majestic old trees during our travels, and would like  to share some of their stories with you.  We have added photos as well, but there is no way to do such trees justice with photography; the only way to truly appreciate them is to stand in awe at their base and look up towards the heavens.  In most cases it is not even possible to capture the whole tree in a single photograph.

RIVER RED GUMS

The River Red Gum is possibly the quintessential Australian tree.  How many paintings show the RIver Red Gum beside the Murray or Darling Rivers?  Our first glimpse of the true giants of this type was at Pooncarie on the Darling River, once a thriving port but now a mere whisper of its former glory.  At the time, the Darling River was struggling to flow and was recovering from blue-green algal blooms, and the River Red Gums themselves looked unwell; ragged, with dying limbs and sparsely folliaged.  Yet they still had a hint of grandeur about them.  We camped near a large specimen on our first night beside the Darling.  We didn’t camp directly beneath the tree, tempting though that was, for they have a reputation for dropping their enormous limbs without warning.  Some call them ‘widow-makers’.  We would love to return to the Darling River when it is flowing in a healthier way, to see these trees return to their true splendour.

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Mulla Mulla

Tall Mulla Mulla

Mention the Pilbara, and the first plant to spring to my mind is the Mulla Mulla.  We first travelled through the Pilbara in 2008, a year renowned for its wildflowers in Western Australia.  We were amazed at the variety of Mulla Mulla on display.  I recall seeing at least a dozen different species, many of which we have been unable to identify in our reference books and on the net.  There were fields of Mulla Mulla, and bushes over 1 metre high, shaped like elegant candelabra, and covered in blooms.  At the time I felt I was overindulgent in terms of the photos I took, but look back  now and wish I’d taken more.

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