A long weekend in the West MacDonnells

Nirbeeja, a happy camper

We were excited to learn that, hot on the heals of the Anzac Day long weekend, we were to have another long weekend here in the Northern Territory.  Who said this was an uncivilised place?  What were we to do with three days off? The answer was obvious – we’d “go bush”.

Now, deciding what to do was the easy part, where to go not so simple.  Alice Springs is the largest settlement for around 1500km in any direction, and Alice has a population of less than 30000.  So you get the idea – there is plenty of bush out here. 

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Wildflowers of Western Australia

Australian Desert Rose, Wittenoom Gorge

Western Australia is deservedly famous for its wildflowers.  One of the first things you notice upon travelling through  WA is the soil, if you could call it that.  Most of WA is sandy and dry, and at first glance appears unlikely to support much in the way of plant life.   Yet travel through the state during the springtime and you will be astounded at the range of wildlfowers on display, especially if there have been good winter rains.     We wondered whether the range of flowers was in some part due to the high mineral content of the sandy ground. 

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Australian Reptiles, large and small

Close-up of Long Nosed Dragon, Trephina Gorge NT

We began our journey with little appreciation of Australia’s reptiles. We knew the names of a few poisonous snakes, could probably recognise a Goanna, or a Frill-necked Lizard, and maybe one or two others, but that was about it  Oh, and we knew to avoid Crocodiles (see previous post).

Little did we realise that Australia has incredible herpetological riches.  At the latest count Australia was home to 864 species of reptile, though this number is constantly rising as new species are discovered.  We hope that environmental degradation doesn’t push the number downwards.

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Crocodiles

Taken in captivity, closeup of Saltwater croc at the Alice Springs Reptile Centre

Most of us have a fascination with crocodiles, probably because these prehistoric creatures have a tendency to eat people.    The stories of unsuspecting tourists and careless locals being taken by ‘Salties’ are enough to send a chill down your spine.  Saltwater crocodiles are known to observe their potential prey over many days, demonstrating cunning, patience and, something rarely acknowledged, a degree of intelligence.  They are said to observe the patterns of their would-be prey, such as the time of day they come to the waterhole in which the crocodile lurks, and other habits, such gathering water or drinking from particular spots along the bank. For example, if a camper wanders down to collect water from the waterhole at 7am daily, from the same spot, this will be duly noted!  All this information is gathered with the intent of making that violent explosion from the water all the more likely to secure their meal.   

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Brolgas

What’s going on here?  We’re running a website called brolgahealingjourneys, and we don’t have any pictures of Brolgas on the site.  To tell the truth, we had a really frustrating time waiting to see our first Brolgas on our travels.  We had seen plenty of Brolgas on a previous trip, in 2002, to the Kimberley.  In fact, the huge flocks of Brolgas we saw at that time, on the shores of Lake Gregory, itself on the edge of the Great Sandy Desert, provided the inspiration for this website’s name. 

But this time around things were different. We commenced our travels in July 2007 and it wasn’t until late June 2009 that we had our first sighting.  It was with a mixture of excitement and blessed relief that we watched a small flock of Brolgas jump and dance on the far edge of a pond at Cape Keraudren, on the southern tip of Eighty Mile Beach in WA.  We too jumped and danced, to see Brolgas again.   The Brolgas were a long way off, the sun was in our eyes, we only  managed a few grainy photos and a short blurry video, but we didn’t care.  At long last we had seen some Brolgas!!

Brolgas seen from the Bluebush bird hide, Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary, Kimberley WA

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Finches, Firetails & Mannikins

Zebra Finch, near Telegraph Station, Alice Springs NT

These small, energetic, chatty and often colourful birds seem to agree with the old adage of “safety in numbers”.  As you walk through the bush you are likely to hear their high pitched calls to one another well before you see their tiny forms darting from bush to bush.   Australia has many species of these mainly seed-eating birds.  We are yet to see many of them but neveretheless count ourselves as fortunate to have seen some.  We look forward to adding more sightings as we travel.

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The Kimberley

Manning Gorge

Is it possible to sum up the Kimberley in a few photographs?  Of course not.   Such a vast, untamed, ancient, uncompromising and varied landscape would take a lifetime to even begin to comprehend.  But what the hell, here a a few photos we took in various places around the Kimberley, which we hope will give you a glimpse of the moods of this magnificent region. The Kimberley holds a magic all of its own.

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Recent photos – April 2010

Female Wallaroo, Todd river north of Alice Springs

I’ve added some photos taken over the past few days, mainly of wildlife around Alice Springs.  They’ve been added to the appropriate albums where relevant.
Cheers!
Peter
18 April.

The Pilbara

Contrasts, Weano Gorge, Karijini Ntl Pk

Most of us would be hard-pressed to locate the vast Pilbara region on a map of Australia.  We might associate the Pilbara with iron ore mining and offshore gas rigs, but know little more about it.  Nirbeeja and I certainly knew very little about the region before we visited. The first time we looked at a map of the region, there seemed to be a few small settlements with vast distances between them, and huge areas of ‘nothing’ on the map.

The reality of the Pilbara is, of course, very different.  It is a beautiful region, perhaps with the greatest range of colours of any we have seen in Australia.  The deep red of the rocks and earth contrasted with the deep blue of the sky and the pale spinifex grass.

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Australian Scenery

The beautiful pool above Champagne Springs, the Kimberley

We have been blessed to visit many wonderful places during our travels around Australia; some beautiful, some wild and some spectacular. And some all three.

Here is a selection of our photographs. 

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